Fall Break

Fall break is a thing outside of California, and it's lovely. As our honeymoon consisted of a two-night stay in SLC before AJ flew back for school (it was actually perfect and delightful and amazing), we thought we would count this as our retreat...which we shared with nine other couples in a beach house...and a handful of small children. True romance! Thus, we found ourselves in the Outer Banks of North Carolina (OBX) enjoying the surf, sand, seafood, and all season one of HBO's True Detective while hunkered down in our room. (Seriously, sososo good. If you're a fan of Breaking Bad and looking for a quick fix while waiting for the new season of Game of Thrones, this is your solution. We are digging the excellent selection that the media section of the law library has to offer.)

While there are few places I'd rather be than the beach, I've never been much of an ocean person. Shark attacks are a great fear of mine (read Unbroken and try to not have a panic attack) and, though yearly beach trips have been had, the last time I actually got in the ocean was in 2008 in the Mediterranean while chaperoning a group of high schoolers through Greece and Italy. (I earned that trip, believe you me.) Before that, it was the south of France in 2004 with Jill and Sarah on a post-graduation trip. (HAHAHA, how annoying do I sound?!) This was my first dip in the Atlantic, and it was quite nice-much warmer than the Pacific, sand like powdered sugar, frolicking in the waves with my boo. I read Ruth Reichl (if you love food and autobiographies, read her!) and Janet Evanovich (if you want to zone out while losing brain cells and hiding the book from others out of embarrassment, read her!) and AJ cracked open The Bully Pulpit, a new one from Doris Kearns Goodwin (Team of Rivals) about Teddy Roosevelt, Taft, and journalism during the Progressive Era. And of course, catch on the beach. Gotta keep that arm loose.

We ventured further south to see the sights at Kitty Hawk, site of the Wright brothers' famed first flight. According to my personal docent, AJ, both North Carolina and Ohio claim Orville and Wilbur, as their work and flight took place in the former while they were born in the latter. Look at these two babies fight it out via state license plates:

Props to the people of Kitty Hawk who assisted the brothers greatly in their continued experiments and in building the memorial to honor them.

A tad Orwellian

Oh, Orville

We did brunch at The Saltbox, a quaint spot on the banks of a creek-thanks for the recommendation, YELP! Hearing people speak with Southern accents is still new and charming to me, and this place was packed with such voices. I had the steak salad with bleu cheese (is there a better combination? Besides a Wendy's Frosty and fries, naturally), and AJ's dish was divine: shrimp and grits with andouille sausage. For dessert we had the key lime creme brulee...mmmm...C’est comme un petit Jesus en culottes de velours! 

                                  

We were very lucky to stay in The Black Pearl, an amazing three-story beach house that we got for a wicked good deal, as it was off-season. The area is famed for Duck Donuts, a local shop that allows you to customize freshly-baked donuts. Our room overlooked the ocean, so AJ and I had the brilliant idea of gorging on donuts while watching the sun rise at 7:08 AM. This meant awaking at 6 AM, racing to the shop 20 minutes south, and heading back. We got there just as it opened and made our selections, including maple glaze with bacon (sweet and savory heaven!) and a lemon glaze with coconut. (Side note-I love coconut EVERYTHING.) AJ was sharing our sunrise plans with the proprietor, telling her where we were from, giving her our Social Security numbers-his usual interaction with complete strangers. She asked where we were staying, then queried why we drove so far to that location when there was a Duck Donuts two minutes from our house...UGH. Whatever. We made it to our deck just in time to watch the magic happen, and it happens really fast. It's, like, one minute the sun isn't there, and 20 seconds later it's high in the sky. Yeah, I'm basically your own personal Neil deGrasse Tyson with that description. No need to watch the next episode of Cosmos.

Each night two different couples cooked for the whole crew, which meant maxin' and relaxin' most of the time, then one night of running around like a crazy person to get dinner on the table for a large group of people. BIG LOVE to my back-of-house crew in my places of employment! My sous chef (AJ) and I made a corn chowder (recipe in the link below), courtesy of my favorite Food Network chef, Ina Garten, aka The Barefoot Contessa. (Sorry, Linds.) I could watch her cook in her beautiful kitchen all day, making adorable beach picnics for her friends with kids and taking gourmet packed lunches to her pals in their music studios, all the while her amazing gay chums handle the decor. Sandra Lee, sit down, girl. Governor Cuomo ain't with you for your recipes. 

Barfeoot Contessa's Cheddar Corn Chowder

Some of the guys went crabbing, so dinner was followed by a round of fresh steamed crab, doused in Old Bay Seasoning. I'm not much of a shellfish person, but AJ is all about the crustaceans and cracked a few legs.

The weather was perfect until the day we left, which made departing a little easier. We stopped at one of the state's famed lighthouses, got in some history, then headed to Cravings, a local seafood place featured on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives! I was a tad hesitant, as I hadn't seen this episode and I like to fancy myself an expert on reading Guy Fieri's body language, and really paying attention to what he is saying when visiting different spots, trying to gauge if he's just being polite or if he's actually Donkey Sauce stoked on the place. (Yes, I love cooking and food shows! The best? Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown on CNN. Trust me. Past seasons are also on Netflix.) Our server was excellent, and made me grateful that I never worked in a restaurant where I had to memorize multiple and lengthy nightly specials. We had the seafood platter (lobster and mahi and shrimp, oh my!) and the caprese salad (pesto on fresh mozzarella is a YES)...and two baskets of warm buttery garlic bread. (Post-vacation gym sessions are at once terrible and exhilarating.)

On the drive home, we listened to Dan Carlin's Hardcore History podcast Blueprint for Armageddon, about WWI and its deadly battles. Each podcast is a few hours long but so incredible; I can't recommend it highly enough. There are a variety of topics, but this might be a good choice, as the Great War began 100 years ago and Veterans' Day is soon upon us. It was an impressive reminder of the great strides and technological changes that occurred in the 20th century, for both good and bad. I can only imagine the awe and despair my great-grandparents felt watching the world completely change within their lifetime.

Speaking of changes, have you guys tried Taco Bell's Fritos Burrito? I discovered this gem in the middle of America during my trek across the country, and IT IS PERFECT. The spice of the beef with the creaminess of the nacho cheese, complemented by the crunch of the Fritos, all enveloped in a warm flour tortilla...oh, and it's on the dollar menu. So of course we stopped for a couple. You should, too.

DC-27

AJ's birthday was this past weekend and we decided to take full advantage of our close proximity to DC and LIVE IT UP at our nation's capital in celebration. And that is how we found ourselves at...the Newseum. (My original plan was tickets to the Nationals game, but finances prevented such an excursion. And crisis averted! Longest playoff game ever and the home team lost? Pass. Who didn't lose? The Dodgers.) Thus, we found ourselves soaking up all the journalistic exhibits the Newseum had to offer. It was my first time and is one of AJ's favorite places from his internship days in DC, and it did not disappoint. At $23, tickets are pricey, but I downloaded the Gold Star app, which offers discounted tickets for events all over the country, and scored us some for $5 off. (I hate/love this about myself.) Either way, well worth it. We only had a few hours and I could have spent forever in the last exhibit alone, which was all of the Pulitzer-Prize winning photos, along with detailed written and video explanations from the photographers. I remembered poring over Time-Life books at my Grandma and Grandpa Urmston's house, and many of those photos were here, so it was a moment of nostalgia as well. There was also an incredibly moving exhibit on 9/11, as well as one focused upon the Civil Rights Movement, a map analysis of the freedoms (or lack thereof) of the press around the world, a feature on journalists who have given their lives for the story...too many exhibits to detail but all important and impactful. I'm looking forward to going again.

Life in Chicago, 1982

Our worlds collide: first editions 

Goodman, Chaney, and Schwerner

Daniel Pearl's passport and translation book

Journalists who have lost their lives in the line of duty

Flag that flew over the Pentagon on September 11th

Joy

Winning the bronze, Barcelona Olympics

While there, we met up with some friends from Utah, my Provo roommate Stephanie and her guy. This is proof that, if you visit DC, we will drive two hours to see you. Because we love you. Post-museum, we hit up Potbelly's for AJ's favorite sammy, the White House, Washington Monument, Vietnam Memorial, and the Lincoln Memorial. I've been to the Lincoln Memorial a few times, and it never ceases to amaze me; at night, it's on another level. Abe just glows from within, and his larger-than-life words of the Gettysburg Address and Second Inaugural Address are so powerful, especially when surrounded by others who are also taking in his prose. A few passages that stood out:

Both parties deprecated war, but one of them would make war rather than let the nation survive, and the other would accept war rather than let it perish, and the war came.

Both read the same Bible and pray to the same God, and each invokes His aid against the other. It may seem strange that any men should dare to ask a just God's assistance in wringing their bread from the sweat of other men's faces, but let us judge not, that we be not judged. The prayers of both could not be answered. That of neither has been answered fully. The Almighty has His own purposes.

Fondly do we hope, fervently do we pray, that this mighty scourge of war may speedily pass away. Yet, if God wills that it continue until all the wealth piled by the bondsman's two hundred and fifty years of unrequited toil shall be sunk, and until every drop of blood drawn with the lash shall be paid by another drawn with the sword, as was said three thousand years ago, so still it must be said "the judgments of the Lord are true and righteous altogether."

The third is especially poignant, as last week we attended a lecture by John Meacham, author of Thomas Jefferson: The Art of Power. An engaging and intelligent historian (redundant!), he discussed the fact that, while the debt of gratitude we owe to our third president is deep and great, and the role Jefferson played in the founding of America is one of the most important, the fact that he brushed away the issue of slavery to be dealt with at a later time is one of his greatest faults. To visit the Lincoln Memorial and be reminded how our 16th president worked to resolve the issue from his position of leadership was empowering. One thing that Meacham advised to the audience was, rather than looking up to people of the past in a reverential manner, or looking down on them in a critical and judging way, we should "look them in the eye"; for this is the way we can see them for who they are, and take the lessons we learn from their inaction and be active participants in making our world today better.

After the National Mall, we headed to Toki Underground, a ramen spot that came highly recommended by our dear friend Lee. I'm sorry, it's a 3 hour wait? Perfect, we'll be back in a month. We caught a few innings of the aforementioned Nationals game while waiting, then made our way to &pizza on H St. (not a typo, actual name). Yesyesyesyesyes. From the interior to the workers to the pies, we loved it all. AJ had the Farmer's Daughter: spicy tomato, housemade mozzarella, hot sausage, spinach, farm eggs, parmesan reggiano, and red pepper chili oil; while I had the Kiss & Fire: spicy tomato, quattro formaggi blend, ricotta spread, meatballs, local mushroom blend, and strawberry balsamic. I also tried their housemade pear and fig soda...and the anise root beer...as well as the citrus fizz and mango tangerine. IT WAS HOUSEMADE, I HAD TO! I highly recommend the place: casual, affordable, eclectic, great food. I'm always impressed when just one item can take a dish to the next level; for me, it was the strawberry balsamic. Most of the time, fruity balsamics are way too sweet and syrupy, but this was like homemade strawberry jam with the vinegary tang of the balsamic; the perfect complement to the spicy tomato sauce and heat of the meatballs.

For dessert, AJ surprised me with "sweets for the stomach AND the mind." (His words, obviously.) DuPont Circle is home to the BEST spot, Kramer Books & Afterwords. The bookshop is open until 1 am, they've got a live DJ on the ones and twos, and there's a cafe/bar. Books piled everywhere, classic neon sign in the window, amaretto-soaked brownie sundae....le siiiigh...My own private Idaho. I hunkered down and read a couple chapters of Lena Dunham's newest (quick review: I liked what I read, but I wasn't $28 hardcover blown away. I'll probably just read it a few chapters at a time at Barnes & Noble and eventually buy a used copy, while eagerly awaiting the fourth season of Girls.) Bonus: AJ bought me a graphic guide to feminism. BOW DOWN.

Sunday dawned and AJ entered his 27th year. Good food, Face Time with the family, naps, General Conference, football, love, dancing in front of the mirror in his new threads with his Cinnamon Toast Crunch, and my first attempt at a mint chocolate chip ice cream cake. Happy birthday baby, I can't wait for infinity more birthdays with you. Thank you to everyone who wished him well from near and far. It means everything to us.

Shenandoah

Wilderness...is a spiritual necessity, an antidote to the high pressure of modern life, a means of regaining serenity and equilibrium. -Sigurd Olson, 1946

We caught a love for the national parks last year with our trip to Yosemite and attempt to hike Half Dome. The CA climb was not as well-orchestrated, and included charging phones outside a Vons at midnight and sleeping in the car in the parking lot of one of the town's finest motels, but this time we were better prepared. BIG UPS to the lovely wedding well-wishers who gifted us with a tent and Target gift cards, as we are now the proud owners of some sweet camping gear. Moreover, my lifelong dream of having my very own sleeping bag, that only I use, has been fulfilled.

"Oh, Shenandoah" This song was in one of the films at the park. So. Much. Beauty. For the complete blog-reading experience, click on the "Oh, Shenandoah" link and have it playing quietly in the background as you read this post. Enjoy a cup of tea. Ignore your crying children. Study later. DO YOU.

Shenandoah National Park is just a 75-minute drive away, making it the perfect overnight trip. We were met at the entrance by the grumpiest ranger I've ever encountered, although she did inform us that there was no entrance fee that day, so hurrah for saving some bills. C.R.E.A.M. Unfortunately, this was AJ's second exchange that day with a very rude person (thanks, Comcast!), but it couldn't put a damper on his friendly and optimistic soul. Luckily, my time in restaurants and the classroom has prepared me for top-shelf jerks, so I just told him to say "thanks" and exit the situation quickly. (It reminded me of when I used to live with Kim Davis and she, the kindest person ever, would be so nice and talk to telemarketers for extended amounts of time; meanwhile, I'd be hollering at her across the apartment to "JUST HANG UP!" Different folks, different strokes-bless those in my life who are simply better humans than I.)

We camped at Lewis Mountain which, until integration of the park occurred in the 1950s (ahead of many other national institutions), was THE spot for African-American campers. Naturally, AJ and I were happy with our choice. Malcolm X forever. Our four-man tent was set up (room for a couple more, who's gonna visit?!), firewood secured, and we were off to climb Old Rag Mountain. Full disclosure, talk of this trip first began because of a chapter in Tina Fey's Bossypants (EVERYONE should read this and I have personally loaned my copy to four different people. I count this as one of my life's greatest acts of service.), in which she describes climbing Old Rag, a UVA tradition, in the wee hours of the morning with the hope of gettin' it on with a dude who was actually...never mind, I don't wanna ruin it for you. READ IT. (And watch and become addicted to 30 Rock.) So we cracked open our book on national parks and mapped out the route to Old Rag...unsuccessfully. However, the Skyline Drive is a ribbon of road that weaves through the park and offers incredible views along the entire way, so all was not lost. Stops were made, views were scoped, lounging like cats on warm rocks occurred, awkward photos were taken, and

we made our way to the Dark Hollow Falls Trail. Beautiful hike, lovely falls and foliage, I pretended as though I had sticks for hands at one point
(I don't know, that Crystal Light Wild Strawberry takes me to a different place), and Peanut Butter and Blueberry Crisp Clif Bars were enjoyed by the team. We ended the adventure with a stop at the Byrd Visitors Center, which is a legit place. There was an interactive timeline telling the story of how Shenandoah came to be (the Western US was full of national parks, the East Coast wanted some love, Shenandoah was the answer-yeah, I DO have a history degree), beautiful and educational films, HELPFUL and KIND rangers, and a gift shop full of an adorable Girl Scout troop called the Bumblebees. One takeaway from the educational part of the Center was that, while obviously the Great Depression was a time of hardship for individuals and the nation, it was used as an opportunity to create public works programs that helped build parks such as this; so thanks to the boys of the CCC for planting the gorgeous trees and building the rock walls throughout the park.

John Muir spits mad truth

Dark Hollow Falls

"Iron Mike", in memory and appreciation of all the boys who helped build Shenandoah National Park

Back at site #12 on Lewis Mountain, AJ started a crackling fire while I prepped the sweet potatoes (coconut oil, onion powder, garlic, Tapatio, brown sugar, steak seasoning, S&P) and chicken (S&P and Sweet Baby Ray's Honey Chipotle). I am telling you, our new cast-iron skillet is TOPS. I watched my mom and dad do the Dutch oven-cooking for camp dinners for years, and having some cast-iron cookware of my own is my new favorite thing, indoors and outdoors. Appetizers: multigrain chips and Newman's Own Black Bean & Corn Salsa (our new favorite and all profits to charity); and dessert: a chilled Snickers bar from the camp store. The night's activities: few things compare to the solitude and peace that come from sitting around a campfire, just staring into the flames; it's one of my favorite things to do, especially with my boo. I do not, however enjoy losing to him at a campside round of Scrabble, but growing up playing board games against my dad, I've gotten used to second place.

Word of advice: if the campsite next to you has a couple tyke-sized bikes, consider relocating, as you WILL be awakened early to the sounds of small towheads playing "school" and "house" by your tent. You're cute, kids, but not that cute. Scrambled eggs and turkey sausage for breakfast (remember when I used to not eat meat? LOLz!), a game of catch to break in AJ's new glove and get me ready for the week's softball game (batting a thousand, ya'll!), and we packed up and headed out.

A walk in the woods

Alexander John Muir

No lie, I needed the trip like Britney needs her Cheetos and grits. President Franklin D. Roosevelt, in his dedication of the park on July 3rd, 1936, spoke of it being for generations of Americans for the "recreation and re-creation which they shall find here." Then, now, forever.